For sure I am a travel addict. I am also lucky to have studied, worked and lived in various places around the world. My current stop is Singapore which is an excellent base for discovering South East Asia, a region full of hidden gems, diverse cultures and natural beauties. But I am no touristy-site hopper: when I travel, I try to look for small things, easily overlooked corners and places that are off the beaten paths. Small towns and cities are my favourite. It is in such places that you will find the most authentic food, untainted by the need to internationalize and commercialize, identify the unique aspects in the local way of life, and of course, meet the most friendly people who make your experience unforgettable. And I would rather spend more time in less places so as to give myself enough time to have a feel for whatever places I go to.

Interestingly, the more I travel overseas, the more I realize how little I knew about my country (I come from Vietnam), hence the need to go home and discover. Have you ever felt the same way? These days I try to make use of my limited holidays to explore what Vietnam has to offer. A highlight of this blog will thus be my travel experience in Vietnam and I hope it will be useful to travellers like yourself.

Enjoy!

P.S. Check out my tripadvisor reviews at http://www.tripadvisor.com/members-reviews/youngnfree

Tây Nguyên (Central Highlands) Discovery - Kon Tum

Saturday, June 1, 2013

As far as I was educated, Tây Nguyên mean jungles, waterfalls, ethnic people, wild animals (read: elephants) and coffee plantations in the minds of most Vietnamese. Our literature and music praise the charms of highland wilderness, of beautiful tribal girls, and the strong taste of local coffee. Exploring Tây Nguyên hence carries a romantic notion of being able to go wild and experience a rich tribal culture that still somehow survive modern times.

From my hometown Đà Nẵng, we set out to explore to Kon Tum, Pleiku, and Đắk Lắk.

Boarding a Mai Linh bus from Đà Nẵng intercity bus station at 10am, we embarked a five-hour journey to Kon Tum. The bus tickets were booked in advance at VND 170,000 per pax, and each corresponded to a seat number, but apparently, two unlucky folks who booked the tickets from two different cities, were allocated the same seat! Worse, the tiny 15-seater bus was fully booked that day. A solution was found: add a stool near the bus sliding door to make room for the extra passenger. Fortunately for us, our seats were not mixed up with other people's.

One hour into the trip, we were passing along some of the most remote mountainous areas bordering Laos. Hardly a house or farmland was in our sight. Suddenly, in the middle of nowhere, our driver started cursing when he realized none of his crews back at the bus station bothered loading a spare tire before the bus departure. I'm not sure if he realized how unwitting that was as two of his passengers obviously became a bit nervous after that ;-).

Much to our glee, our only tires endured the whole journey without going burst. We arrived in Kon Tum around 2pm, safe and sound.

Check out the route our bus took.


View Da Nang-Kon Tum in a larger map

Highlights of Kon Tum

Historically, the habitants of Kon Tum are comprised chiefly of Bana and Gia Rai (sometimes spelled J'rai) ethnic groups. In Bana language, Kon means village and Tum lake. Since Vietnam's modernisation in the early 90s, more Kinh people which make up over 85% of the country's population have arrived to settle in this quiet little town, and become the second most populous ethnic in Kon Tum.

1. Catholic seminary

Constructed by French missionaries in 1934 and served to house the first French Catholic bishop in the hill-tribe area, this lovely complex is graced by a beautiful frangipane-lined entrance and spacious garden with various displays of hill-tribe artifacts.

In present days, it houses a Vietnamese bishop, priests and priests-to-be. There is also a Hill-tribe Museum upstairs but it was locked when we went there. It is not clear when the museum is open to visitors. We tried to ask a senior resident to unlock the room who then expressed his annoyance at random tourists like us without giving us a glimpse of what could be inside.

From Tranquil Kon Tum


2. Magnificient Wooden Church

Standing on a stilt platform, the made-of-wood church was built to incorporate many hill-tribe features to appeal to its main audience, the hill-tribe villagers. Hence it is also known as Montagnard church.
From the outside, a distinct feature of the church is its rose window which depicts a "rong" house or tribal communal house and a blue elephant. Once inside, you may notice that the beautiful stained glass arts are in fact, carefully assembled decal.

From Tranquil Kon Tum


3. Kon Harachot Village

Located within walking distance from the wooden church, Kon Harachot Village offers a glimpse into the life of tribal communes in the face of urbanisation. Fortunately, it still maintains a rong house and some traditional stilted houses. Keep an open ear and you can find that the villagers still speak their own language although I'm not sure whether it is Bana or other dialects.

Add caption
From Tranquil Kon Tum


We stayed in this sleepy town for two days. My childhood memories of my own hometown came back, and I started to recall how quiet things used to be in Da Nang less than fifteen years ago. Streets with hardly any motorbikes in sight were common back then and those who are Christians never failed to put on their best clothes to go to Sunday mass. I can't help wondering what Kon Tum will be like in fifteen year's time.

The less-travelled road around Hue

Sunday, November 18, 2012

If you have time and fancy a motorbike road trip around Hue, here is an itinerary of roughly 110km that can be covered in one day. We hit the road at about 8.30am and finished off at 6pm.

I know that tombs and historical monuments are the main course in everyone's plan when visiting this imperial city. But once you've gobbled up all that solemn stuff, spending a day sightseeing the city's outskirt is like enjoying a light and refreshing dessert.


View Hue in a larger map

Help yourself to some photos taken along the way.

Hải Vân Pass

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Hải Vân (literally translated from Vietnamese: Ocean Cloud) Pass marks the border between Đà Nẵng City and Thừa Thiên-Huế Province, Vietnam. Prior to 2005, this pass, especially dangerous during rainy days or otherwise foggy weather at dusk, used to be the only way to traverse between the North and South of Vietnam. Since then however, Hai Van Tunnel, built between 1998 and 2005, has taken over the role of the pass as the primary transportation linkage. Banned from tunnel access, motorbikes, gas tankers and carriers of live animals, as well as some tourist coaches are among the few vehicles frequenting the pass nowadays.

What it means for tourists is that there is very little traffic on the pass, which would make for a lovely motorbike sightseeing trip at your own pace. Although I am overseas most of the time, I do ride on motorbike whenever I am back to Vietnam. Most recently, during Tết (Vietnamese New Year holiday), Nicolas and I decided to travel to Hue for a few days, and we wanted to do that via Hai Van Pass, on a motorbike, motivated by praising words of gorgeous sights from travellers who have taken this route.

View of the Hai Van Pass in the direction towards Hue, taken at the top of the Pass. The highest point is said to be 496m from sea level.
Too bad when I mentioned this, my parents objected right away, unconvinced of my ability to handle the pass's twisting bends, especially with a heavier person behind. There are also rumours about the risks of falling victims to road crimes due to lack of road patrols and traffic in general. ... We ended up arranging for a car with a driver that would take us all the way to Hue's city centre, not skipping the Pass of course. This set us back by US$ 55.

It was a beautifully clear and sunny day in February when we departed. Seeing that road visibility was excellent, and that there was a reasonable number of motorbikes braving the road, I actually regretted not doing it myself!

Traffic on Hai Van Pass (Photo credit: Nicolas Boichat)
I think many of those people must be going from Da Nang to Hue and vice versa to visit their relatives, as part of our Tet customs. Completing the pass on a day like this takes as fast as 30 minutes to as long as a little over an hour, depending on how long you stop for photo-taking.

I will definitely keep this road trip in mind for next time, if the weather is favourable and the timing is neither too early nor late (just a safety precaution).

Shop houses at the top of the pass. There is a post office too but I don't know whether the service there is reliable.